I am back at my
desk: Ghana is already so far away! We Corbett/Kellys had a great time there,
mostly lounging around and contemplating the next cocktail, occasionally
getting energised to visit something a little more demanding than the bar …. For me, two weeks without the need to engage
in French was quite weird – smiling and saying ‘Bonjour’ to everyone who I meet
has become something of a habit.
London’s African population will be in for a surprise until I unlearn my
francophonie…. But enough of my nervous tics. As for what follows, apologies if you received this by email.
Southern Ghana. What is it like? It was really interesting to
go to Ghana after 10 months of hearing about it from envious Burkinabés who
reckon life would have been better in Burkina Faso if only their colonial
masters had been English. Ghana is a
much richer country, because of things like ports, gold and other mineral
resources, rainfall, and infrastructure.
It is not afflicted with desertification.
1.
Ghana cities smell far, far worse than Burkina ones – really, really
sewer-smelly. Because, of course, there are
sewers, rather than latrines and pigs. Too much information??
2.
More cars, far fewer mopeds, scooters and bikes – Western style traffic
jams! Better roads by far; more
tarmac, less red dust.
4. Better houses by far – more electrification,
more standpipes, no ground wells. Lots of thatched roofs rather than
corrugated tin, which is a good thing as tin roofs are too hot.
5. Ghanaian men have no inhibitions about
touching women they do not know, both to gain your attention to sell you stuff
(including themselves) or to grope you. After 10 months of respectful and
polite Burkinabé men, this was not a welcome change.
6. Evangelical Christianity is HUGE in Ghana –
there are hundreds of different sects, many of them constructing large churches
and bible education complexes. Billboards along the motorways promoting
pastors. Several God-focussed TV channels. The Ghanaian equivalent of X
Factor is for gospel choirs and is called Celebrations. The audience
gets to vote off a choir a week. I watched the semi-finals in the
airport.
7. Muslims are fewer in the south but there are
mosques in most villages I saw, and probably a lot more Muslims live up north,
closer to Burkina Faso. The Turkish – gotta love ‘em – are financing and building
a massive, landmark ‘national’ mosque in the centre of the posh central
district of Accra. Larger than you could imagine - €80 million and can
accommodate 10,000 people. Apparently it is already hugely over budget,
and they haven’t got to the pricey final-fit bits.
8. Food – better, more varied. The meat
is of a better quality. Liberal supply of chips – such a treat after Diébougou
where potatoes are the most expensive item in the market and generally of low
quality. Potatoes need less tropical
climes.
9. Education – a massive part of everyone’s
lives. Schools everywhere, business courses, adult education,
certificates in everything and anything.
10. Women's lives appear about 100% better in Ghana than in Burkina Faso. No kidding.
Would I go again? Yes. Would I recommend it to tropical
travellers? I don’t have a lot of
reference points, but yes, if you are in West Africa, you should definitely give Ghana a
go.
And the chance to spend 2 weeks on beaches with my
daughters was lovely. Priceless, as Nell said in advance. Not something I
suspect we shall manage again soon, as they both missed their London Christmas
and their chaps too much! The both have loads of photographs on their Facebook pages; shop signs, and cocktails and other exotica. Are you envious?
